AP tapped pop artist and designer KAWS to create a subversive character watch.
KAWS’s iconic “COMPANION” character occupies the dial of the Royal Oak Concept, composed of peripheral hands and a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and driven by the new Calibre 2979.
the collection features KAWS motifs throughout, such as the artist’s cross adorning the Royal Oak’s iconic bezel screws.
Audemars Piguet has embraced pop culture better than any high-end watchmaker. Thanks in large part to the wisdom of former CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, Audemars Piguet has long been embedded in hip-hop culture — stars like Jay-Z have called out the brand in lyrics, and Audemars Piguet even collaborated with Travis Scott on a signature model — and hip-hop continues to influence streetwear, modern art, modern luxury, and watchmaking culture. KAWS sits at the intersection of all of this. Having begun his career as a graffiti artist in New York in the 90s, KAWS has become one of the world’s most successful pop artists and designers, known worldwide for his unique aesthetic and array of characters. KAWS is as coveted as a Supreme sweater, Nike Air Jordans or Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks – so the news of an Audemars Piguet-KAWS collaboration isn’t entirely unprecedented. cheap replica watches
What is surprising is how extravagant this collaboration is. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “COMPANION” 43mm ref. 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01 takes the form of a Royal Oak Concept, debuting a new in-house movement for the trinity brand and following in the footsteps of other Royal Oak Concept character watches, such as collaborations with Marvel Comics’ Black Panther and Spider-Man. Compared to those two controversial pieces, this KAWS collaboration is a bit more understated… well, as understated as a Royal Oak Concept character watch can be.
Paying homage to KAWS’s ‘advertising intervention’ work from the ’90s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon ‘COMPANION’ – as the name suggests – features the artist’s iconic ‘COMPANION’ figure occupying the watch’s dial, seemingly pressed against the crystal yet also peering out. A skeleton-like clown figure inspired by rubber hose animations from the ’30s, COMPANION is KAWS’s most enduring design, embodied in figures, statues and sketches, often depicted in vulnerable or shy poses; a sad clown. (This Christie’s article explains it well.) There’s a tacit whimsy to the fact that this cartoon character is trapped under the dial of this expensive watch – it’s nothing short of a wealth trap! It’s also completely in keeping with KAWS’s subversive style. Technically, it’s made entirely of titanium, as is the watch’s case and much of the movement.
To give you an unobstructed view of the COMPANION, the ref. 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01 debuts a new manual-winding movement, Calibre 2979, which features external hour and minute hands. (Filled with blue luminous material, the solid triangles represent the hours, and the hollow triangles represent the minutes.) The tourbillon at 6 o’clock also looks like the heart of the COMPANION, further interpreting the theme of life and death. The movement’s bridges even feature a padded design inspired by KAWS’s line-up of cartoon characters, and the ratchet features another KAWS cross design: it’s impressive how much effort AP put into making this collaboration a reality. (Incidentally, the construction of this movement looks similar to that of some Richard Mille replica watch stores to me—and, of course, Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi makes many of RM’s high-end movements, so this doesn’t seem impossible.)
Other notable features: KAWS’s cross design appears on the Royal Oak Concept’s bezel screws, as well as on this watch’s caseback ring, where KAWS’s signature can also be seen. The strap, while it looks like it’s made of nylon fabric, is actually leather: the watch comes with two versions of the strap, light grey and ash grey. While you’re unlikely to go swimming with a watch like this, it’s actually water-resistant to 100 meters, which surprised me a little. The crown isn’t screw-down, but the rim is black ceramic.
It’s no exaggeration to say that this collaboration with KAWS seems to be aimed at hip-hop culture’s trendsetters, or at least their wealthiest fans. (In fact, KAWS has previously collaborated with hip-hop artists like Kid Cudi and Pharrell Williams.) The watch may seem confusing to those who find the idea of camping out for a pair of sneakers absurd, but to die-hard enthusiasts, the AP makes intuitive sense—even if few of them are in a tax bracket that could afford the Royal Oak Concept.
Brand Audemars Piguet
Model Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “COMPANION” 43mm
Reference 26656TI.GG.D019VE.01
Case dimensions 43mm (depth) x 17.4mm (thickness)
Case material Sandblasted titanium
Water resistance 100m
Crystal Sapphire front and back
Dial Sunburst titanium dial with grey micro-titanium KAWS’ COMPANION
Lug width Fused
Strap Light grey calfskin with textile effect, titanium three-piece folding clasp
Movement Calibre 2979, in-house, hand-wound
Power reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, tourbillon